moimoi
AV Clubber 
Posts: 5,091 
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Post by moimoi on Jul 3, 2018 10:57:33 GMT -5
Yeah, normally I wouldn't give the storm door/screen door a second thought, but I'm trying to restore some historical accuracy and add curb appeal to the entry of my vintage bungalow. Step one was replacing the ugly motion detector flood light with a nice craftsman porch light. I also designed a custom stained glass insert to fit behind the single pane glass panel in the front door. I broke with tradition to install a ring doorbell, but that's totally worth it to deter package thieves (plus it doesn't look completely out of place). I also scored very cheap brass stair railings from a website that sells grab bars for people with disabilities - $50 shipping included for 5'. I ordered the wooden storm door from a company called Vintage Woodworks, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend them. They charged me an extra $200 for shipping and it was delayed because the glass insert was broken. I am now over my $500 budget  but I figure the entrance is a reasonable place to splurge. Thanks to nowimnothing's post, I've now figured out how to easily complete the transformation of the front entry door: I'll gel stain it and replace the hardware. Then I'll get some UV coating film for the glass insert in the storm door (no need for a screen because no one in Chicago leaves their front door open) to protect the new finish on the entry door! Once I rip out the godawful carpet on the front stoop and repair cracks, my shit will be straight out of This Old House. This is the stuff I used: www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-JQ-Stain-quart/dp/B001DSY50Y/ref=lp_3029218011_1_1?srs=3029218011&ie=UTF8&qid=1530619537&sr=8-1It was kind of messy and it took me a couple of practice runs to get the hang of it, but it was a lot cheaper and easier than a real refinishing job. I just brushed it on and wiped off each section with a clean paper towel within 5-10 minutes. I was mainly wiping off the brush strokes and letting the wood grain come through. I see other people treated it more like paint, but I like the effect I got. I used less than half a quart for my whole kitchen. It does take a few days to fully dry and it will probably need a poly coat on top, but I am really happy with it so far. Awesome! I was looking at Minwax and they don't have a lot of color options. Plus I would have bought a quart, which is way more than I'd need for just one door! I think I'll get a pint of antique walnut gel stain and a half pint of the topcoat. Thanks for the details :-) |
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Post by Buon Funerale Amigos on Jul 8, 2018 15:15:53 GMT -5
Sharkbite plumbing fittings are recommended with reservations because fuck your copper pipe better have a 100% consistent OD and not be even a little bit out of round.
A ten minute fix took half the day and a trip to Lowe's because the plumbing is 100 years old.
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Trurl
Shoutbox Elitist 
Posts: 7,699
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Post by Trurl on Jul 9, 2018 6:41:29 GMT -5
Sharkbite plumbing fittings are recommended with reservations because fuck your copper pipe better have a 100% consistent OD and not be even a little bit out of round. A ten minute fix took half the day and a trip to Lowe's because the plumbing is 100 years old. I've never had a problem with compression fittings in old pipe. |
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Post by nowimnothing on Jul 9, 2018 6:53:09 GMT -5
Sharkbite plumbing fittings are recommended with reservations because fuck your copper pipe better have a 100% consistent OD and not be even a little bit out of round. A ten minute fix took half the day and a trip to Lowe's because the plumbing is 100 years old. I love sharkbite, but I will tend to buy an extra fitting or two just in case I have to cut the pipe further back and fill the gap with a piece of pex. Then I just return whatever I didn't use. |
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Post by Buon Funerale Amigos on Jul 9, 2018 8:16:06 GMT -5
Sharkbite plumbing fittings are recommended with reservations because fuck your copper pipe better have a 100% consistent OD and not be even a little bit out of round. A ten minute fix took half the day and a trip to Lowe's because the plumbing is 100 years old. I've never had a problem with compression fittings in old pipe. I would have much preferred a compression fitting, but all of the hardware stores around here only have Sharkbite and soldered, and there was no way I was going to do overhead soldering half an inch away from the flooring. (But judging by the scorching, our house has been owned by braver/foolhardier people than me.) I suppose I should order some compression fittings from Amazon, just to have on hand. |
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Trurl
Shoutbox Elitist
Posts: 7,699
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Post by Trurl on Jul 9, 2018 9:23:04 GMT -5
I've never had a problem with compression fittings in old pipe. I would have much preferred a compression fitting, but all of the hardware stores around here only have Sharkbite and soldered, and there was no way I was going to do overhead soldering half an inch away from the flooring. (But judging by the scorching, our house has been owned by braver/foolhardier people than me.) I suppose I should order some compression fittings from Amazon, just to have on hand. Dealing with compression fittings in tight places is its own flavour of hell. My admiration of surgeons who do keyhole operations knows no bounds. |
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Post by nowimnothing on Jul 9, 2018 10:01:30 GMT -5
I was going through some boxes in the garage and discovered that the garage has some moisture issues and some photo albums and books were starting to get moldy. It isn't really leaking, but I had noticed some moisture in another section of the garage. I figured it was ok because the two bays are separated by a wall and there was nothing that would be ruined on that side. With this evidence though, I had to pull everything out of the garage, triage the important stuff and move it into the house. Then I hosed down all the brick and some drywall with a bleach mix, let it dry and applied a liberal coating of Drylok to the back walls and part of the floor. I may have overdone it so now I am worried when we sell the house that it will look like it was a much bigger problem than it was. This probably means I need to paint the entire garage and floor.
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Post by Lt. Broccoli on Jul 12, 2018 5:22:10 GMT -5
I fixed the gate hinge all by myself the other day and I’m a true handyman now, so I can definitely fix the leaky sink, right?
It’s leaking a bit around the drain, so presumably it needs some sort of caulking? Is it that simple? Or is it rusting away and the whole sink needs to be replaced
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Post by Some Kind of Munster on Jul 13, 2018 22:45:50 GMT -5
I fixed the gate hinge all by myself the other day and I’m a true handyman now, so I can definitely fix the leaky sink, right? It’s leaking a bit around the drain, so presumably it needs some sort of caulking? Is it that simple? Or is it rusting away and the whole sink needs to be replaced Is it leaking where the strainer meets the porcelain or below that, where the metal drain meets the PVC pipe? If it's at the strainer, you may need to remove the strainer part of the sink (there should be a nut underneath holding it in place) and either replace it entirely or clean up the old one and add a ring of plumber's putty (not caulk!) to the underside of the flange where it meets the sink. If it's the lower section, where the metal tailpiece meets the PVC, it should be even easier - just tighten the plastic nut. Either way, caulk is not the answer! |
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Post by Buon Funerale Amigos on Jul 14, 2018 16:28:29 GMT -5
I fixed the gate hinge all by myself the other day and I’m a true handyman now, so I can definitely fix the leaky sink, right? It’s leaking a bit around the drain, so presumably it needs some sort of caulking? Is it that simple? Or is it rusting away and the whole sink needs to be replaced Is it leaking where the strainer meets the porcelain or below that, where the metal drain meets the PVC pipe? If it's at the strainer, you may need to remove the strainer part of the sink (there should be a nut underneath holding it in place) and either replace it entirely or clean up the old one and add a ring of plumber's putty (not caulk!) to the underside of the flange where it meets the sink. If it's the lower section, where the metal tailpiece meets the PVC, it should be even easier - just tighten the plastic nut. Either way, caulk is not the answer! That is not a proper use OF CAULK |
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Post by Floyd Dinnertime Barber on Jul 14, 2018 18:38:21 GMT -5
I fixed the gate hinge all by myself the other day and I’m a true handyman now, so I can definitely fix the leaky sink, right? It’s leaking a bit around the drain, so presumably it needs some sort of caulking? Is it that simple? Or is it rusting away and the whole sink needs to be replaced Is it leaking where the strainer meets the porcelain or below that, where the metal drain meets the PVC pipe? If it's at the strainer, you may need to remove the strainer part of the sink (there should be a nut underneath holding it in place) and either replace it entirely or clean up the old one and add a ring of plumber's putty (not caulk!) to the underside of the flange where it meets the sink. If it's the lower section, where the metal tailpiece meets the PVC, it should be even easier - just tighten the plastic nut. Either way, caulk is not the answer! |
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Post by Not a real doctor on Jul 28, 2018 17:24:45 GMT -5
9)Build a deck 9a) Break out old concrete steps on back of house 9b) Deck Frame 9c) Deck posts 9d )The actual damn deck itself
It doesn't seem like it's snowballing, does it?
Soooooooo, I did it! On with the photo essay! When I moved in, the backyard was a sad affair with privacy fencing running from the house to the garage to keep the previous owner's dogs in and a set of semi-leaning old concrete steps going into the sunroom. Here it is on closing day after I'd taken down that section (taking it down allowed me to get things in the back door of the house which made moving easier because there was no gate in the damn fence so going from inside to outside meant walking through the house!)
My first move was to spend way too much time one idle Friday afternoon swinging a sledgehammer breaking out the old steps: And it stayed like that for longer than I'd care to admit. Then, framing began! And continued
And finally we got the decking down! Ms. Notarealdoctor thoroughly enjoyed using the big framing nailer. Cleanly making the 45o cut across the edge using my old circular saw on a chalkline was the crowning achievement of my carpentry life: And there you have it, a bunch of hours and a few hundred bucks later, I even built some steps to the door: All I really wanted was a place to put a chair so I could drink beer outside and not be in the yard I'll work on landscaping around it in the fall. Sigh.
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Post by nowimnothing on Aug 13, 2018 8:01:40 GMT -5
We have a creek that runs through our new backyard and the bridge was getting increasingly wobbly and the decking was starting to come off.  It was just sitting in the dirt on each side and had very little bracing. First I tore off the decking and lifted it up on deck blocks and leveled it all out with paver sand. Then I cut off the rotted ends of the stringers and added bunch of extra cross braces and joist hangers.  I put on new decking and some rope railings just to finish it off.  I probably should have just replaced the stringers while I was at it, but they were like 20' long and I did not want to screw with getting them delivered or strapped to the top of my van. It seems very solid as is though and looks a lot better. |
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Baron von Costume
TI Forumite
Like an iron maiden made of pillows... the punishment is decadence!
Posts: 4,684 
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Post by Baron von Costume on Aug 13, 2018 8:53:05 GMT -5
I have started painting my whole downstairs... then realized that today I'd have to come into the office and my seperation anxiety/dig at the door mutt will be alone with the baseboards off....
Really hoping I don't come home to insulation yanked out of everything.
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 14, 2018 15:27:04 GMT -5
Our HOA is mostly fine, really - they keep the yards mowed and the grass seeded and replaced roofs a couple years ago and it's all gone pretty well.
But they picked the pettiest, stupidest thing to pick on us about. We got a cable upgrade earlier this year and someone decided that the cable running along side our house didn't meet the "keep yards tidy and clutter free" standard. Which is delightfully vague and unhelpful. Got a notice to correct in July.
OK, it was partly on the ground and partly under the siding so I got some electrical tape and secured it under the siding as best I could and hoped that would be the end of it.
Got another notice in August, this time with a fine attached. I was willing to let the notice go, but I am not paying a (relatively small) fine for this. It's stupid. The policy as written gives NO indication of how cables should be secured or what constitutes "clutter" but a single cable should not be an issue. And if you really want to ding me again you have to TELL ME how to fix it. I read the regulations through three times and there is nothing about securing cables or wires. So, I'm fighting back and we'll see what the board says next week.
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Baron von Costume
TI Forumite
Like an iron maiden made of pillows... the punishment is decadence!
Posts: 4,684
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Post by Baron von Costume on Aug 15, 2018 9:36:41 GMT -5
While painting I found another crack I'd missed in earlier wall prep (not really a surprise given the age of my house.)
Unfortunately while prepping it to fill in I followed it down to the corner of my front entry door and basically all of the shoddily done fill work at that corner of the door is crumbling out. So now that entire wall is going to wait until I go buy form of other insulation/filler for it. I wouldn't care except I have a guest coming over tomorrow and I was hoping I could have the entryway all done by then at least.
My house is roughly 110 years old and has been through a couple fairly major remodels, unfortunately the last of these (done before the previous owner about 15-20? years ago) seems to have been a fairly shittily done flip. Both the front and rear door were replaced and rather than actually go to the effort of matching the doors they bought shitty slightly smaller ones then patched a biiig gap. They also installed new electrical sockets but put most of them in upside/reversed the polarity on some, light fixtures that just devour bulbs because they are the cheapest of contractor packs, redid the kitchen really badly, installed the cheapest possible click flooring in the living room without proper subflooring etc... etc... Add on the "artistic" daughter's lazy changes for the last owner for more fun. Paint in the kitchen only down to what she could reach behind the stove/fridge, weird tile backsplash with no grouting and no paint between the tilers, weird cow/chicken demon thing painted on shed...
Overall the house is sound and has been really good to me, I'm just sick of discovering new adventures in shitty maintenance whenever I look at something new.
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Post by Floyd Dinnertime Barber on Aug 16, 2018 12:03:17 GMT -5
While painting I found another crack I'd missed in earlier wall prep (not really a surprise given the age of my house.) Unfortunately while prepping it to fill in I followed it down to the corner of my front entry door and basically all of the shoddily done fill work at that corner of the door is crumbling out. So now that entire wall is going to wait until I go buy form of other insulation/filler for it. I wouldn't care except I have a guest coming over tomorrow and I was hoping I could have the entryway all done by then at least. My house is roughly 110 years old and has been through a couple fairly major remodels, unfortunately the last of these (done before the previous owner about 15-20? years ago) seems to have been a fairly shittily done flip. Both the front and rear door were replaced and rather than actually go to the effort of matching the doors they bought shitty slightly smaller ones then patched a biiig gap. They also installed new electrical sockets but put most of them in upside/reversed the polarity on some, light fixtures that just devour bulbs because they are the cheapest of contractor packs, redid the kitchen really badly, installed the cheapest possible click flooring in the living room without proper subflooring etc... etc... Add on the "artistic" daughter's lazy changes for the last owner for more fun. Paint in the kitchen only down to what she could reach behind the stove/fridge, weird tile backsplash with no grouting and no paint between the tilers, weird cow/chicken demon thing painted on shed... Overall the house is sound and has been really good to me, I'm just sick of discovering new adventures in shitty maintenance whenever I look at something new. Upvoted for weird cow/chicken demon thing. Pictures would be appreciated. Always looking for inspiration.
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Baron von Costume
TI Forumite
Like an iron maiden made of pillows... the punishment is decadence!
Posts: 4,684
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Post by Baron von Costume on Aug 16, 2018 13:49:28 GMT -5
While painting I found another crack I'd missed in earlier wall prep (not really a surprise given the age of my house.) Unfortunately while prepping it to fill in I followed it down to the corner of my front entry door and basically all of the shoddily done fill work at that corner of the door is crumbling out. So now that entire wall is going to wait until I go buy form of other insulation/filler for it. I wouldn't care except I have a guest coming over tomorrow and I was hoping I could have the entryway all done by then at least. My house is roughly 110 years old and has been through a couple fairly major remodels, unfortunately the last of these (done before the previous owner about 15-20? years ago) seems to have been a fairly shittily done flip. Both the front and rear door were replaced and rather than actually go to the effort of matching the doors they bought shitty slightly smaller ones then patched a biiig gap. They also installed new electrical sockets but put most of them in upside/reversed the polarity on some, light fixtures that just devour bulbs because they are the cheapest of contractor packs, redid the kitchen really badly, installed the cheapest possible click flooring in the living room without proper subflooring etc... etc... Add on the "artistic" daughter's lazy changes for the last owner for more fun. Paint in the kitchen only down to what she could reach behind the stove/fridge, weird tile backsplash with no grouting and no paint between the tilers, weird cow/chicken demon thing painted on shed... Overall the house is sound and has been really good to me, I'm just sick of discovering new adventures in shitty maintenance whenever I look at something new. Upvoted for weird cow/chicken demon thing. Pictures would be appreciated. Always looking for inspiration.
I will oblige next time I get behind the tomato cages but I just watered  I have an electrical question for someone. How much work (in terms of say a qualified electrician) would it be for someone to split the light circuit on my staircase. e.g. the lights at the bottom and top of my stairs are both turned on with the same switch. I wired in a new ceiling fan at the top of the stairs for better airflow in the summer, but now I'm finding if I leave that on so the fan runs (with that light manually turned off) my bonkers bright LED spots at the bottom of the stairs light up the stairwell enough that I need to mostly close the door for darkness. In my ideal world there's now a two switch panel at top and bottom that can control either (or a two switch at the top that can control the bottom light and the fan, while the downstairs just controls the downstairs light.) I'm just curious if anyone has a ballpark idea of labour time I'd be looking at for something like that. I have a list of like 5 projects for next time I hire an electrician and that one is at the bottom of it but still... |
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Post by Floyd Dinnertime Barber on Aug 17, 2018 0:16:52 GMT -5
Upvoted for weird cow/chicken demon thing. Pictures would be appreciated. Always looking for inspiration.
I will oblige next time I get behind the tomato cages but I just watered I have an electrical question for someone. How much work (in terms of say a qualified electrician) would it be for someone to split the light circuit on my staircase. e.g. the lights at the bottom and top of my stairs are both turned on with the same switch. I wired in a new ceiling fan at the top of the stairs for better airflow in the summer, but now I'm finding if I leave that on so the fan runs (with that light manually turned off) my bonkers bright LED spots at the bottom of the stairs light up the stairwell enough that I need to mostly close the door for darkness. In my ideal world there's now a two switch panel at top and bottom that can control either (or a two switch at the top that can control the bottom light and the fan, while the downstairs just controls the downstairs light.) I'm just curious if anyone has a ballpark idea of labour time I'd be looking at for something like that. I have a list of like 5 projects for next time I hire an electrician and that one is at the bottom of it but still... I'm not an electrician. I'm neither licensed nor certified in electrical wiring, so theoretically, any suggestion I might give could possibly cause your house to burn down. But it probably won't. I studied basic electrical code in tech school, and have done small wiring jobs around the farm. Haven't burned anything down yet.
If I am following correctly what you said, the change to the circuit design sounds pretty simple. You would need to wire the fan so that it's electrical source is paralleled off from the line feeding the spot lights, before those lights are switched, then all a second switch would need to do is break the hot wire feeding the fan and light. You would still need to manually turn the light off and on when the fan is on. The main question is how the wires to each device are physically routed. I think a lot of time and money would depend on where the lines going to the spots and the fan split relative to the location of the switch now operating the spots.
tl;dr I dunno, you're probably going to have to have an electrician look at it and give you an estimate.
For a minute there, I thought I could be of some help. Sorry.
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 21, 2018 18:39:05 GMT -5
Does anyone have any suggestions on hiding a cable under siding or attaching it to concrete/siding? This cable is driving me insane and I hate our board right now. Nothing I’ve tried has stayed for more than a day or two.
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Post by WKRP Jimmy Drop on Aug 21, 2018 21:36:59 GMT -5
Does anyone have any suggestions on hiding a cable under siding or attaching it to concrete/siding? This cable is driving me insane and I hate our board right now. Nothing I’ve tried has stayed for more than a day or two. Mine I think they drilled a small hole in the siding and used a zip tie to secure it, but this may be more Floyd’s line of expertise. |
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 21, 2018 21:42:29 GMT -5
Does anyone have any suggestions on hiding a cable under siding or attaching it to concrete/siding? This cable is driving me insane and I hate our board right now. Nothing I’ve tried has stayed for more than a day or two. Mine I think they drilled a small hole in the siding and used a zip tie to secure it, but this may be more Floyd’s line of expertise. I’m just so frustrated with the board who keeps insisting I haven’t fixed it without telling me how to fix it. But there is a board meeting tomorrow so I should hear more soon about whether I have to cut somebody. |
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Post by Floyd Dinnertime Barber on Aug 21, 2018 23:22:17 GMT -5
Does anyone have any suggestions on hiding a cable under siding or attaching it to concrete/siding? This cable is driving me insane and I hate our board right now. Nothing I’ve tried has stayed for more than a day or two. As a 30 year satellite installer, it is my professional opinion that there is no good way to attach coax to vinyl siding. I have used some no-nail clips that can sometimes hold the cable in place, but you're gonna still see the coax, and the clips usually deteriorate after several months, and the cable falls out. You can sometimes hide coax under the overlap where the horizontal strips of siding meet the foundation, but this isn't reliable. There will be areas where the siding is too tight, and the coax won't go under it, or too loose and the coax won't stay. Also, it will usually fall out after a few weeks anyway. The only reliable way I know of to attach coax to vinyl siding is to use a clip with a screw. They are a pain in the ass to install, and it looks like hell, but they will keep it in place for a few years. There is absolutely no good way to attach coax to concrete.
Wish I had better news for you.
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 22, 2018 7:36:40 GMT -5
Does anyone have any suggestions on hiding a cable under siding or attaching it to concrete/siding? This cable is driving me insane and I hate our board right now. Nothing I’ve tried has stayed for more than a day or two. As a 30 year satellite installer, it is my professional opinion that there is no good way to attach coax to vinyl siding. I have used some no-nail clips that can sometimes hold the cable in place, but you're gonna still see the coax, and the clips usually deteriorate after several months, and the cable falls out. You can sometimes hide coax under the overlap where the horizontal strips of siding meet the foundation, but this isn't reliable. There will be areas where the siding is too tight, and the coax won't go under it, or too loose and the coax won't stay. Also, it will usually fall out after a few weeks anyway. The only reliable way I know of to attach coax to vinyl siding is to use a clip with a screw. They are a pain in the ass to install, and it looks like hell, but they will keep it in place for a few years. There is absolutely no good way to attach coax to concrete.
Wish I had better news for you.
Sigh. That's what I was afraid of. The parts where it tucks under nicely and the siding is tight are fine, but there's one stretch that's a bit loose, and every time I stick it up there with duct tape or whatever, it falls out a day or two later. (It's right where the siding and the foundation meet.) I want the board to tell me wtf to do because I have no more ideas. Thank you for weighing in. |
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Post by nowimnothing on Aug 23, 2018 15:02:50 GMT -5
As a 30 year satellite installer, it is my professional opinion that there is no good way to attach coax to vinyl siding. I have used some no-nail clips that can sometimes hold the cable in place, but you're gonna still see the coax, and the clips usually deteriorate after several months, and the cable falls out. You can sometimes hide coax under the overlap where the horizontal strips of siding meet the foundation, but this isn't reliable. There will be areas where the siding is too tight, and the coax won't go under it, or too loose and the coax won't stay. Also, it will usually fall out after a few weeks anyway. The only reliable way I know of to attach coax to vinyl siding is to use a clip with a screw. They are a pain in the ass to install, and it looks like hell, but they will keep it in place for a few years. There is absolutely no good way to attach coax to concrete.
Wish I had better news for you.
Sigh. That's what I was afraid of. The parts where it tucks under nicely and the siding is tight are fine, but there's one stretch that's a bit loose, and every time I stick it up there with duct tape or whatever, it falls out a day or two later. (It's right where the siding and the foundation meet.) I want the board to tell me wtf to do because I have no more ideas. Thank you for weighing in. Maybe while walking your dog, you could surreptitiously take some pictures of the cables on your neighbors' houses. You could get some ideas or at least some whataboutism to throw around at the board meeting. |
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 23, 2018 15:13:40 GMT -5
Sigh. That's what I was afraid of. The parts where it tucks under nicely and the siding is tight are fine, but there's one stretch that's a bit loose, and every time I stick it up there with duct tape or whatever, it falls out a day or two later. (It's right where the siding and the foundation meet.) I want the board to tell me wtf to do because I have no more ideas. Thank you for weighing in. Maybe while walking your dog, you could surreptitiously take some pictures of the cables on your neighbors' houses. You could get some ideas or at least some whataboutism to throw around at the board meeting. I *definitely* noticed that our next-door neighbors have more or less the same problem, and theirs is lying on the ground right until almost the back of the house, at which point it disappears under the siding. So depending on what the board tells me, I will mention that. I don't even understand what the actual problem is, they keep referring me to a section of the regulations and all that says is "keep the area around your house free from clutter." It's not cluttered. It's ONE cable. They didn't even notice the rusty shepard's crook someone put in our dirt. |
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Post by Dr. Rumak on Aug 27, 2018 13:46:08 GMT -5
Came back to Florida to discover a beehive had been built under our shed. We have a bee removal expert here today to get rid of them.
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Post by Dr. Rumak on Aug 27, 2018 15:52:35 GMT -5
Came back to Florida to discover a beehive had been built under our shed. We have a bee removal expert here today to get rid of them. Here is the bee man with the portion of the shed that had to be removed. $400 for the removal, but he did leave us some of the honey.  |
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Aug 28, 2018 12:18:51 GMT -5
The board met last week - Wednesday, I believe - and my whole Thing was on the agenda. I was supposed to hear back from the office soon after. We got our monthly statement on Thursday; I followed up Friday with an email. There are currently TWO fines on the statement, even though I was told to disregard the second notice. I don't know how much we actually owe, I don't want to pay the second fine (I don't want to pay the first one either, but I would accept it if needed) and I have NO clue how they want me to hide this stupid cable.
Oh, and the statement also included our quarterly newsletter, with a VERY passive-aggressive reminder that "in case you didn't know, as part of the no clutter rule, cables should be hidden under siding!" Oh fuck you very much.
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Crash Test Dumbass
AV Clubber
ffc what now
Posts: 7,058
Gender (additional): mostly snacks
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Post by Crash Test Dumbass on Aug 28, 2018 12:52:05 GMT -5
The board met last week - Wednesday, I believe - and my whole Thing was on the agenda. I was supposed to hear back from the office soon after. We got our monthly statement on Thursday; I followed up Friday with an email. There are currently TWO fines on the statement, even though I was told to disregard the second notice. I don't know how much we actually owe, I don't want to pay the second fine (I don't want to pay the first one either, but I would accept it if needed) and I have NO clue how they want me to hide this stupid cable. Oh, and the statement also included our quarterly newsletter, with a VERY passive-aggressive reminder that "in case you didn't know, as part of the no clutter rule, cables should be hidden under siding!" Oh fuck you very much. The only solution I can think of is to set your entire HOA board on fire. |
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but I figure the entrance is a reasonable place to splurge. Thanks to nowimnothing's post, I've now figured out how to easily complete the transformation of the front entry door: I'll gel stain it and replace the hardware. Then I'll get some UV coating film for the glass insert in the storm door (no need for a screen because no one in Chicago leaves their front door open) to protect the new finish on the entry door! Once I rip out the godawful carpet on the front stoop and repair cracks, my shit will be straight out of This Old House. 
