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Post by pairesta on Sept 28, 2015 9:48:17 GMT -5
I just got an Umbrian cookbook ( The Dog Who Ate the Truffle) for research this month. It's mostly a written memoir of living in that part of Italy. My frustration is, she'll go on and on about these great dishes she cooked and ate, but then follow it with a recipe for something completely unrelated and frustratingly basic. After going on and on about tracking down a chef on Lake Trasimeno who cooked with fish just from that lake, and learning all these great recipes, she gives us a recipe for . . . tomato sauce. After a multi-page story about buying and cooking a rabbit for the first time we get a recipe for . . . zucchini flowers. A chapter about visiting an authentic Umbrian restaurant and eating things like gnocchi with a goose ragu, or grilled liver. Then, a recipe for . . . meat broth. A section on Umbria's famous saltless bread, followed by a recipe for . . . pizza.
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GumTurkeyles
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Post by GumTurkeyles on Sept 28, 2015 12:58:53 GMT -5
A section on Umbria's famous saltless bread, followed by a recipe for . . . pizza. They're famous for flavorless bread?
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Post by pairesta on Sept 28, 2015 13:03:16 GMT -5
They're famous for flavorless bread? Them and Tuscany, yes. Many centuries ago the pope levied a tax on salt, and so they started baking their bread without salt. However, they make up for it by putting the saltiest things they can on it, hence bruschetta being so popular in both regions. Also the lack of salt helps the yeast really go to town and so they have very big, porous breads.
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Post by Ron Howard Voice on Sept 29, 2015 20:42:33 GMT -5
They're famous for flavorless bread? Them and Tuscany, yes. Many centuries ago the pope levied a tax on salt, and so they started baking their bread without salt. However, they make up for it by putting the saltiest things they can on it, hence bruschetta being so popular in both regions. Also the lack of salt helps the yeast really go to town and so they have very big, porous breads. I was just reading the San Marino Wikipedia page today. As part of a treaty with Italy regarding the border, San Marino agrees not to import anything directly - all imports must pass through Italy first - and in return Italy will supply San Marino with " sea salt (not more than 250 tons per year), tobacco (40 tons), cigarettes (20 tons) and matches (unlimited amount)."
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Post by Return of the Thin Olive Duke on Sept 29, 2015 21:22:38 GMT -5
On the other hand, it seems like I try something from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything: The Basics, I get flummoxed by bad ratios/quantities and the food ends up too dry, too wet, or some other defect. My mom gave me that when I moved out. I have yet to use it. She also just gave me a seasonal Jewish cookbook because she knows I like to cook for the holidays, but I haven't looked at it either. I'm worried about using it; Jewish cooking today is basically 75% Sephardic and that's what I've been doing so far, but "Jewish" in America still connotes Ashkenazim.
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Post by Return of the Thin Olive Duke on Sept 29, 2015 21:23:44 GMT -5
Them and Tuscany, yes. Many centuries ago the pope levied a tax on salt, and so they started baking their bread without salt. However, they make up for it by putting the saltiest things they can on it, hence bruschetta being so popular in both regions. Also the lack of salt helps the yeast really go to town and so they have very big, porous breads. I was just reading the San Marino Wikipedia page today. As part of a treaty with Italy regarding the border, San Marino agrees not to import anything directly - all imports must pass through Italy first - and in return Italy will supply San Marino with " sea salt (not more than 250 tons per year), tobacco (40 tons), cigarettes (20 tons) and matches (unlimited amount)." How do you guarantee to provide an unlimited amount of anything?
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Post by Ron Howard Voice on Nov 2, 2015 15:43:06 GMT -5
My writeup of Kenji Lopez-Alt's "The Food Lab" is out.TL;DR: I tried 14 recipes ranging from simple vinaigrette to his "perfect" pan-seared steaks. They were all pretty great, only one needed tweaking (it was missing a step), the sciency explanations are almost never condescending, and overall I recommend the book. Organization is a giant minus, however, as everything does seem fairly chaotic.
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Post by pairesta on Jan 3, 2016 18:36:00 GMT -5
So for Christmas, I got two cookbooks. The first is Jerusalem, aka the "Nothing Can't Be Improved With a Fried Egg on Top" cookbook. The second is the very intimidating, no-nonsense Prune, by Gabrielle Hamilton. It's a 567 page book. Recipes start on page 3 and end on page 560. There is no introduction. There is no prelude or context to any recipes. Want an index? Go fuck yourself. There isn't even a table of contents. There's some "notes" from Hamilton to the presumed idiot new line cook that makes Prune sound like a really unpleasant place to work. That's it.
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Jan 6, 2016 10:17:50 GMT -5
Friend of mine gave me Cooking for Geeks, which I appreciate but which I am not finding to be all that impressive. (He had no prior knowledge of it and isn't a huge cook himself, so it wasn't like "here, I really loved this".) Mostly it feels like a pale imitation of Alton Brown, a lot more textbook than cookbook, with interviews with various food industry people and a lot of science. It seems aimed at young guys who are maybe engineers or coders and are trying to crack this whole cooking thing. It's not bad, per se, but I don't feel like I'm going to get a ton of use out of it.
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Baron von Costume
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Post by Baron von Costume on Jan 8, 2016 11:01:38 GMT -5
Friend of mine gave me Cooking for Geeks, which I appreciate but which I am not finding to be all that impressive. (He had no prior knowledge of it and isn't a huge cook himself, so it wasn't like "here, I really loved this".) Mostly it feels like a pale imitation of Alton Brown, a lot more textbook than cookbook, with interviews with various food industry people and a lot of science. It seems aimed at young guys who are maybe engineers or coders and are trying to crack this whole cooking thing. It's not bad, per se, but I don't feel like I'm going to get a ton of use out of it. I got that book at some point, maybe a grad gift? I read the first part once and I don't think I've touched it since. I bought myself The Silver Spoon before xmas but haven't yet made anything from it. Might have to correct that this weekend.
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Post by Ron Howard Voice on Jan 29, 2016 16:27:21 GMT -5
Friend of mine gave me Cooking for Geeks, which I appreciate but which I am not finding to be all that impressive. (He had no prior knowledge of it and isn't a huge cook himself, so it wasn't like "here, I really loved this".) Mostly it feels like a pale imitation of Alton Brown, a lot more textbook than cookbook, with interviews with various food industry people and a lot of science. It seems aimed at young guys who are maybe engineers or coders and are trying to crack this whole cooking thing. It's not bad, per se, but I don't feel like I'm going to get a ton of use out of it. I got that book at some point, maybe a grad gift? I read the first part once and I don't think I've touched it since. I bought myself The Silver Spoon before xmas but haven't yet made anything from it. Might have to correct that this weekend. I've been surprised by how basic the Silver Spoon recipes usually are. I don't mean that they're not good - they're just not flashy, and certainly not with the flair we usually associate with American Italian cooking. A better way to think of it would be Grandma Recipes, although my grandma was such a godawful cook that we're using a hypothetical imaginary grandma here.
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Post by Ron Howard Voice on Jan 29, 2016 17:08:58 GMT -5
BTW I have been having a blast cooking from "Bistronomy", a newish (October) book about the new wave of Paris bistros. There are profiles of the chefs - a diverse lot, seemingly 60% of whom are either foreigners, women, or both. There are stories about how they have set out to forge a new identity for Paris bistro dining, not just steak frites anymore. And the first 3-4 recipes I've tried have been fantastic, most of all this glorious creamy mustardy potato salad that was supposed to be topped with ultra-crispy-skinned boneless chicken, but my grocery didn't have boneless chicken with the skin still on, so I subbed trout.
This week dinners have been "Haricot vert nicoise" with tuna, cherry tomatoes, anchovies, and a hard-boiled egg.
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Baron von Costume
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Post by Baron von Costume on Feb 24, 2016 16:13:48 GMT -5
So while in Nashville I got to scope out my friend's ridiculously awesome cookbook collection...
Liquid INtelligence, Heritage (Sean Brock) and the Momofuku Milk Bar book are all now on my Amazon Wish List.
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Post by pairesta on Feb 24, 2016 16:38:00 GMT -5
So while in Nashville I got to scope out my friend's ridiculously awesome cookbook collection... Liquid INtelligence, Heritage (Sean Brock) and the Momofuku Milk Bar book are all now on my Amazon Wish List. The Heritage book is pretty great. His grit technique is what I use for polenta now and it works so much better. I need to make something from that!
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Baron von Costume
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Like an iron maiden made of pillows... the punishment is decadence!
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Post by Baron von Costume on Feb 24, 2016 16:39:05 GMT -5
So while in Nashville I got to scope out my friend's ridiculously awesome cookbook collection... Liquid INtelligence, Heritage (Sean Brock) and the Momofuku Milk Bar book are all now on my Amazon Wish List. The Heritage book is pretty great. His grit technique is what I use for polenta now and it works so much better. I need to make something from that! Combined with other things I came back from cooking meetup and basically added $500 in stuff to my amazon wishlist pretty much half is books.
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GumTurkeyles
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Post by GumTurkeyles on Feb 25, 2016 7:15:36 GMT -5
So while in Nashville I got to scope out my friend's ridiculously awesome cookbook collection... Liquid INtelligence, Heritage (Sean Brock) and the Momofuku Milk Bar book are all now on my Amazon Wish List. The Heritage book is pretty great. His grit technique is what I use for polenta now and it works so much better. I need to make something from that! What's that technique?! All recipes for polenta say the cook time should be around 45 minutes. I tend to have it done in 8. I think I recently read that you should add the polenta with the cold water/broth/milk, so I intend to try that next time.
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Post by pairesta on Feb 25, 2016 8:14:30 GMT -5
Soak the grits/polenta several hours in advance in cold water. Put on high heat, bring just to s simmer. Cut off the heat and cover for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, then cook on low heat for 20 minutes or more, stirring when you can.
I had the same issue you did: kept hearing that you need to be cooking polenta for 45 minutes or more, and yet I could never get it that far. It just kept burning, sticking to the pan. I guess it's the very gradual hydration in this process, but it works wonders. The polenta emerges sweet and with a definite toasted corn taste.
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LazBro
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Post by LazBro on Feb 25, 2016 9:51:38 GMT -5
Soak the grits/polenta several hours in advance in cold water. Put on high heat, bring just to s simmer. Cut off the heat and cover for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, then cook on low heat for 20 minutes or more, stirring when you can. I had the same issue you did: kept hearing that you need to be cooking polenta for 45 minutes or more, and yet I could never get it that far. It just kept burning, sticking to the pan. I guess it's the very gradual hydration in this process, but it works wonders. The polenta emerges sweet and with a definite toasted corn taste. I immediately looked this up when I read your previous comment. Seems nuts - the "rest" in particular - but I'm eager to try it.
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Post by pairesta on Feb 25, 2016 10:23:59 GMT -5
I immediately looked this up when I read your previous comment. Seems nuts - the "rest" in particular - but I'm eager to try it. It's alot more like cooking rice than anything. It's all about forcing the grains to hydrate without them burning. My issues with polenta before were that that starchy water would burn too easily and stick to the pan. The covering step is a pretty genius move: it's short enough that the polenta stays at "boiling" temp without cooling off, but it's also off the heat and cooking indirectly instead of possibly burning. Another benefit is that this really reduces the "magma" stage of the polenta where it thickens and then starts shooting boiling hot globs all over the kitchen. It's alot creamier and thinner this way, and only ever cooks in such a way that it won't have those violent bubbles.
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Post by pairesta on Dec 27, 2016 10:41:45 GMT -5
Reviving this thread to discuss my Christmas cookbook gift haul. Tender by Nigel Slater. Since I loved Notes From The Larder so much I'm looking forward to this one, though much of it appears to be more gardening than cooking. French Country Cooking by Mimi Thorisson, about a woman and her family buying and restoring an old French inn and restaurant in Medoc. And finally, oh lordy: Sunday Sauce by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke. I've mentioned a couple times around here that this past year I got really into Italian-American cooking. While my cookbook collection is robust with Italian cookbooks, I actually don't have any real deal Italian-American cookbooks. So I did some searching on the subject on Amazon, and discovered this guy Daniel Bellino-Zwicke has carved out quite a niche for himself on this very subject, with a number of cookbooks very narrowly focused on a particular aspect of Italian-American food lore. So this book is all about Sunday Gravy. The focal point of the book is the Clemenza Makes Sauce For The Guys in The Godfather. It's my favorite food scene in movies, and pretty much the scene that got me cooking to begin with. How could I not want the book, then? Onto the list it went. Christmas morning almost as soon as I unwrapped it I began reading it. On the first page of the first chapter was a typo ("defiantly" instead of "definitely"). It caught me as odd, but I kept going. It just kept getting worse. Terrible grammar; bizarre punctuation; randomly capitalizing words or phrases, putting quotes around sentences without context: is he quoting someone? Who? Random italics. No italics or underlining when referring to movies like The Godfather or Goodfellas. After trying to make it through a couple more pages, I looked at the title page. To the best of my knowledge, it appears to be self-published, with almost everything except the printing attributed to himself. No editor. It's just pages of rambling, repetitive paragraphs, almost like he just dictated his thoughts down and then published without even a cursory second read. No research done; just him talking off the top of his head. At one point he gives his understanding of the history of Italian cooking, starting with Catherine "d'Medici" getting married to the French King, "whatever his name was". Here's how the paragraphs of his chapter "Sunday" begin (I'm gonna stick a big fat SIC here; all grammar, spelling, punctuation, etc is his): "It's like a book version of Fateful Findings." My wife remarked after trying to read a couple pages. I've never seen anything like it. I keep trying to just power through, ignore the style, and try to learn something, but it's impossible. Even the recipes are jarring, including him repeatedly misspelling "raisins as "raisons". I can't even blame this on him maybe not being a native English speaker; he reminds the reader every other paragraph that he's a New York Italian-American. I can't even imagine the seizures this would give Pedantic Editor Type trying to read it. I finally gave up after this: So anyways. Gonna go look up Barnes and Nobles' return policy for books that just suck.
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Post by Pedantic Editor Type on Dec 27, 2016 18:24:11 GMT -5
Arrgh that gives me fits just looking at it.
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Post by The Stuffingtacular She-Hulk on Dec 28, 2016 9:19:21 GMT -5
Well, at least I get to come in here all smug because I received A Treasury of Great Recipes, 50th Anniversary Edition: Famous Specialties of the World's Foremost Restaurants Adapted for the American Kitchen by Mary and Vincent Price from my brother. It has a very nice (and short) foreword from Wolfgang Puck and a longer preface from the Prices' daughter Victoria explaining how the book came about and her own experiences with her parents and their relationship to food. (Turns out, Vincent wasn't a snob at all and was happy to let Victoria, a picky eater, eat whatever she wanted without making a big deal out of it. A+ dadding.) Each chapter of recipes is introduced with a charming little essay by Mary and/or Vincent about the region/restaurant and how they first came to find it. Their writing is accessible and engaging, and they seem to have been a couple who enjoyed wine, food, and life very much. Their enthusiasm is extremely infectious, especially as it's unpretentious. That said, it is very much an old-school cookbook; it assumes that the reader understands certain techniques or phrases without giving much, if any detail, about some of them. Many of the recipes are classic French in the vein of Larousse Gastronomique or Escoffier, involving certain equipment or techniques I haven't used since culinary school. I certainly don't mind, though, because it's nice to have received a cookbook that doesn't involve some Food Network star blathering on about how "difficult" it is to make bechamel so here's the shortcut instead. (My family is very good at cookbooks. Other people...I appreciate the thought, I do, but what the fuck's Rachael Ray gonna teach me that I don't know already?) There are only lists of ingredients to accompany each recipe - the measurements are contained within the recipe, which necessitates extra attention when cooking. So, it's a bit higher-level than I normally do at home, but I love a challenge. I've been having a great time poring through the book, because there really are some fun dishes I want to try, particularly the fillets of sole in vermouth, Burgundian snails, and carrot vichyssoise. Not to mention all the pastries, which all look amazing. I've even caught my dad flipping through it to look at the pictures more than once. I'll report back here when I make one of the recipes for sure.
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LazBro
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Post by LazBro on Dec 28, 2016 9:36:28 GMT -5
Well, at least I get to come in here all smug because I received A Treasury of Great Recipes, 50th Anniversary Edition: Famous Specialties of the World's Foremost Restaurants Adapted for the American Kitchen by Mary and Vincent Price from my brother. It has a very nice (and short) foreword from Wolfgang Puck and a longer preface from the Prices' daughter Victoria explaining how the book came about and her own experiences with her parents and their relationship to food. (Turns out, Vincent wasn't a snob at all and was happy to let Victoria, a picky eater, eat whatever she wanted without making a big deal out of it. A+ dadding.) Each chapter of recipes is introduced with a charming little essay by Mary and/or Vincent about the region/restaurant and how they first came to find it. Their writing is accessible and engaging, and they seem to have been a couple who enjoyed wine, food, and life very much. Their enthusiasm is extremely infectious, especially as it's unpretentious. That said, it is very much an old-school cookbook; it assumes that the reader understands certain techniques or phrases without giving much, if any detail, about some of them. Many of the recipes are classic French in the vein of Larousse Gastronomique or Escoffier, involving certain equipment or techniques I haven't used since culinary school. I certainly don't mind, though, because it's nice to have received a cookbook that doesn't involve some Food Network star blathering on about how "difficult" it is to make bechamel so here's the shortcut instead. (My family is very good at cookbooks. Other people...I appreciate the thought, I do, but what the fuck's Rachael Ray gonna teach me that I don't know already?) There are only lists of ingredients to accompany each recipe - the measurements are contained within the recipe, which necessitates extra attention when cooking. So, it's a bit higher-level than I normally do at home, but I love a challenge. I've been having a great time poring through the book, because there really are some fun dishes I want to try, particularly the fillets of sole in vermouth, Burgundian snails, and carrot vichyssoise. Not to mention all the pastries, which all look amazing. I've even caught my dad flipping through it to look at the pictures more than once. I'll report back here when I make one of the recipes for sure. This book sounds awesome. Definitely share any of the stuff you make with us!
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LazBro
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Post by LazBro on Dec 28, 2016 9:41:41 GMT -5
I received Cook's Illustrated: Cook's Science, and have enjoyed reading through it when I've had time. Haven't attempted anything from it yet, but come on, it's been 3 days. Like all Cook's Illustrated books - I have their big cookbook, too - it's not much for storytelling, but I like how it digs into why traditional recipes often fall short and how little tweaks can make big differences. It's a good reference for getting the basic cooking of ingredients correct. I also expect to receive Alton Brown: EveryDayCook, because it shows as purchased on my Amazon list, but that has not yet come to pass. I have a final Christmas gathering tonight, so that's when I'll likely get it, but it's also possible that I'll receive it for my birthday, which is only a few weeks away.
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Post by pairesta on Dec 28, 2016 11:42:38 GMT -5
That said, it is very much an old-school cookbook; it assumes that the reader understands certain techniques or phrases without giving much, if any detail, about some of them. Many of the recipes are classic French in the vein of Larousse Gastronomique or Escoffier, involving certain equipment or techniques I haven't used since culinary school. I certainly don't mind, though, because it's nice to have received a cookbook that doesn't involve some Food Network star blathering on about how "difficult" it is to make bechamel so here's the shortcut instead. (My family is very good at cookbooks. Other people...I appreciate the thought, I do, but what the fuck's Rachael Ray gonna teach me that I don't know already?) There are only lists of ingredients to accompany each recipe - the measurements are contained within the recipe, which necessitates extra attention when cooking. So, it's a bit higher-level than I normally do at home, but I love a challenge. I've only looked through the book briefly myself, but this, too is what stood out to me. It's from a bygone era, with dishes and recipes that used to be standards but practically unheard of now. But not an any kind of kitschy way. And yes, lots of assumptions on the part of the reader being able to understand certain techniques or having things on hand. I need to cook something from this too!
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Post by pairesta on Dec 28, 2016 11:43:46 GMT -5
Also my wife tells me I have one more cookbook coming. Hopefully it's not the other Daniel Bellino-Zwicke book I asked for.
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GumTurkeyles
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Post by GumTurkeyles on Jan 3, 2017 9:26:36 GMT -5
Reviving this thread to discuss my Christmas cookbook gift haul. Tender by Nigel Slater. Since I loved Notes From The Larder so much I'm looking forward to this one, though much of it appears to be more gardening than cooking. French Country Cooking by Mimi Thorisson, about a woman and her family buying and restoring an old French inn and restaurant in Medoc. And finally, oh lordy: Sunday Sauce by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke. I've mentioned a couple times around here that this past year I got really into Italian-American cooking. While my cookbook collection is robust with Italian cookbooks, I actually don't have any real deal Italian-American cookbooks. So I did some searching on the subject on Amazon, and discovered this guy Daniel Bellino-Zwicke has carved out quite a niche for himself on this very subject, with a number of cookbooks very narrowly focused on a particular aspect of Italian-American food lore. So this book is all about Sunday Gravy. The focal point of the book is the Clemenza Makes Sauce For The Guys in The Godfather. It's my favorite food scene in movies, and pretty much the scene that got me cooking to begin with. How could I not want the book, then? Onto the list it went. Christmas morning almost as soon as I unwrapped it I began reading it. On the first page of the first chapter was a typo ("defiantly" instead of "definitely"). It caught me as odd, but I kept going. It just kept getting worse. Terrible grammar; bizarre punctuation; randomly capitalizing words or phrases, putting quotes around sentences without context: is he quoting someone? Who? Random italics. No italics or underlining when referring to movies like The Godfather or Goodfellas. After trying to make it through a couple more pages, I looked at the title page. To the best of my knowledge, it appears to be self-published, with almost everything except the printing attributed to himself. No editor. It's just pages of rambling, repetitive paragraphs, almost like he just dictated his thoughts down and then published without even a cursory second read. No research done; just him talking off the top of his head. At one point he gives his understanding of the history of Italian cooking, starting with Catherine "d'Medici" getting married to the French King, "whatever his name was". Here's how the paragraphs of his chapter "Sunday" begin (I'm gonna stick a big fat SIC here; all grammar, spelling, punctuation, etc is his): "It's like a book version of Fateful Findings." My wife remarked after trying to read a couple pages. I've never seen anything like it. I keep trying to just power through, ignore the style, and try to learn something, but it's impossible. Even the recipes are jarring, including him repeatedly misspelling "raisins as "raisons". I can't even blame this on him maybe not being a native English speaker; he reminds the reader every other paragraph that he's a New York Italian-American. I can't even imagine the seizures this would give Pedantic Editor Type trying to read it. I finally gave up after this: So anyways. Gonna go look up Barnes and Nobles' return policy for books that just suck. Can you please either a) Post this as an Amazon review or b) Make an amazon review as if you were him, writing it? "Thee raison I purchase this book is for learning to cook Sunday sauce. This book has nothing about ice creams, or making gravy. Is instead about the sauce, of the pasta"
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Post by pairesta on Jan 3, 2017 9:29:50 GMT -5
Can you please either a) Post this as an Amazon review or b) Make an amazon review as if you were him, writing it? "Thee raison I purchase this book is for learning to cook Sunday sauce. This book has nothing about ice creams, or making gravy. Is instead about the sauce, of the pasta" Ha! The Amazon review didn't help either. 86 reviews, 4.5 rating. Only three reviews that I could find mentioned anything about how poorly it was written.
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GumTurkeyles
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Post by GumTurkeyles on Jan 3, 2017 9:33:44 GMT -5
One of my gifts was Amaro. I'm especially interested in the DIY section. When we were in Mardid over the summer, every bar had its own homemade version of vermouth (technically not an Amaro, but similar), and I'd like to try it out. There are also several drink recipes using Amari, rather than just having it straight as an after-dinner drink. www.amazon.com/Amaro-Spirited-Bittersweet-Liqueurs-Cocktails/dp/1607747480
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Post by pairesta on Jan 4, 2017 10:36:14 GMT -5
I returned that horrible book you guys! When the clerk asked the reason I bit my tongue and said I got it twice for gifts.
The other book isn't really a cookbook: Stir the Pot: The History of Cajun Cuisine. After the other cookbook, it was gratifying to see an author immediately cite their sources as opposed to just rambling and talking out of their ass.
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